Diamond Shapes Guide
A Note on Cut vs Shape
When shopping for a diamond, you’ll often hear the terms cut and shape used interchangeably. For the sake of this article, we’ll stick to strict definitions, where cut refers to how well a diamond has been faceted, and shape refers to its design
Round Brilliant
The Round Brilliant is the most popular diamond shape, making up the majority of diamonds sold today. With 58 facets arranged to reflect light, it offers more sparkle, fire, and overall brilliance than any other shape.
Its circular outline makes it very versatile, working well in almost any setting—from engagement rings to earrings and pendants.
Because the cutting process removes more of the rough stone than other shapes, round brilliants cost more to produce. Paired with their high demand and the fact that they’re the only shape with an official GIA cut grade, they usually carry a higher price tag. On average, round brilliants are about 10–30% more expensive than fancy shapes of the same size and quality.
Round Brilliant vs. Fancy Shapes
The Round Brilliant is the only diamond shape that receives an official cut grade from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). As you may recall from our diamond cut article, cut measures how well a diamond has been shaped and faceted from its raw form to reflect light and sparkle.
Every other diamond shape is known as a “fancy shape”; fancy-shaped diamonds do not get cut grades on a GIA report.
Because of this, viewing fancy-shaped diamonds in person becomes especially important. Seeing them firsthand allows you to evaluate how they handle light and sparkle—something a grading report alone cannot fully capture.
Princess
The princess-shaped diamond is defined with a square shape and sharp corners. Like the round brilliant, this shape brings with it an exceptionally high level of brilliance.
A fun fact about the princess shape: ith its square design there’s relatively little waste when it comes to the final yield of the raw stone in the finished form.This makes princess-shaped stones relatively more affordable in price compared to round brilliants of the same level.
One thing to note – with its squared form factor, princess-shaped diamonds can get easily snagged when worn.
With this in mind, proper mounting and care is of paramount importance
Cushion
Cushion-shaped diamonds are defined by a square or rectangular form with rounded corners – looking like the shape of a pillow.
Their larger facets often create bold flashes of color as well as brilliance; cushion cuts in particular are known among the fancy shapes as having the most fire.
In contrast to the princess shape with its sharp edges, the cushion shape’s rounded edges are much less likely to be caught on objects, making it much more durable and friendly for everyday wear
Emerald
The Emerald shape features long, rectangular facets and a large front open table.
Unlike shapes designed to maximize sparkle, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and produces a striking “hall of mirrors” effect, where light reflects in broad flashes rather than brilliant scintillation.
This shape is used extensively with emeralds going all the way back in the 16th century, hence its name.
Asscher
The Asscher cut is a square step-cut with trimmed corners, giving it a shape that’s close to an octagon.
It first rose to popularity during the Art Deco era and is known for its “hall of mirrors” effect, similar to the effect given off by emerald-shaped stones.
Marquise
The Marquise cut is easy to recognize with its long shape and pointed ends. Its design makes the diamond look bigger than its actual carat weight, which is why it’s often chosen by people who want a stone with extra presence.
Symmetry matters a lot with this cut—when the points and curves line up evenly, the diamond looks balanced and appealing. Because of the elongated shape, marquise diamonds can show what’s called the “bow tie effect,” a darker band across the center of the stone. This happens because light doesn’t bounce back evenly in the middle. Some areas reflect light brightly, while others fall into shadow, which creates the bow tie look.
A well-cut marquise will soften this effect by spreading light more evenly. Still, most marquise diamonds have at least a hint of it—it’s simply part of how the shape works. The main thing is whether the bow tie blends in naturally with the sparkle or looks too dark and distracting.
Oval
Oval diamonds combine the sparkle of a Round Brilliant with a more elongated outline.
A classic cut, known for their lively brilliance, scintillation, and fire, they also create the illusion of length, making the finger appear slimmer.
Thanks to their shape, ovals often appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight.
This balance of size, sparkle, and graceful profile makes the oval a favorite for those who want something timeless yet distinctive.
With its elongated shape, oval diamonds are also susceptible to the bow-tie effect.
Pear
The Pear cut, or teardrop, blends the Round and Marquise into one shape, with a point on one end and a curve on the other.
This asymmetry gives it character, but it also means that poor cuts make the diamond more susceptible to looking uneven.
When well-proportioned, a Pear diamond offers both brilliance and uniqueness, making it a favorite for those who want something slightly different yet timeless.
Like with the marquise and oval shapes, the pear can also show a bow-tie effect, so viewing the stone in person is key to choosing one with the best light performance.
Radiant
The Radiant cut mixes the sparkle of a Round with the shape of a Princess or Emerald. Its cropped corners and faceting give it plenty of brightness and color, making it a lively choice.
This cut is also practical—the bevelled corners help protect against chipping, which makes it sturdier than shapes with sharp points.
Radiant diamonds can be cut in either square or rectangular proportions and fit well in many settings, from solitaires to halos. If you like the clean outline of an Emerald or Princess but want more sparkle, the Radiant offers a nice balance.
Hearts are yucky and not high end. I’d rather leave them out.
Finding the Shape That’s Right for You
Diamonds come in all different shapes and sizes, with each individual stone having its own character and appeal. Choosing the right stone depends on your style, the setting, and how you want the diamond to feel when you wear it. Round Brilliants are loved for their brilliance and tradition, while fancy shapes offer individuality and flexibility in both size and price.
At Takohl, we’ve been helping clients in Chicago explore diamond shapes for more than 35 years.
Our team can show you how different cuts look in person, explain the details that matter, and guide you through side-by-side comparisons.
Visit our showroom in the West Loop and let us create a piece that reflects your style and will be treasured for years to come.